Hair Conditioners
In order to put the shine back into hair and restore its natural luster it may be necessary to use a specific hair conditioner that meets the hair’s requirements. Conditioners, with the exception of hot oils, should be applied to freshly shampooed hair that has been blotted dry with a towel to remove excess moisture.
Conditioners are formulated to be used after shampooing to smooth down uneven cuticles. They work by coating each hair with a fine layer of oil which serves to make hair more manageable.
Normal hair needs a balanced conditioner; dry hair needs deep conditioning whilst greasy hair needs a light conditioner. You can’t build up condition on your hair – you need to re-apply conditioner every time you wash to maintain shine and manageability. Leave the product on for the time stated neither longer and nor shorter to work properly.
Types of Hair conditioners
Today, there is large and sometimes confusing, number of hair conditioners on the market. The following describes those which are widely available.
Ingredients
There are several types of hair conditioner ingredients, differing in composition and functionality:
Moisturizers, whose role is to hold moisture in the hair. Usually these contain high proportions of humectants.
Reconstructors, usually containing hydrolyzed protein. Their role is to penetrate the hair and strengthen its structure through polymer crosslinking.
Acidifiers, acidity regulators which maintain the conditioner’s pH at about 2.5–3.5. In contact with acidic environment, the hair’s somewhat scaly surface tightens up, as the hydrogen bonds between the keratin molecules are strengthened.
Detanglers, which modify the hair surface by pH as acidifiers, and/or by coating it with polymers, as glossers.
Thermal protectors, usually heat-absorbing polymers, shielding the hair against excessive heat, caused by, e.g., blow-drying or curling irons or hot rollers.
Glossers, light-reflecting chemicals which bind to the hair surface. Usually polymers, usually silicones, e.g., dimethicone or cyclomethicone.
Oils (EFAs – essential fatty acids), which can help dry/porous hair become more soft and pliable. The scalp produces a natural oil called sebum. EFAs are the closest thing to natural sebum (sebum contains EFAs).
Surfactants – Hair consists of approximately 97% of a protein called keratin. The surface of keratin contains negatively-charged amino acids. Hair conditioners therefore usually contain cationic surfactants, which don’t wash out completely, because their hydrophilic ends strongly bind to keratin. The hydrophobic ends of the surfactant molecules then act as the new hair surface.
Lubricants, such as fatty alcohols, panthenol, dimethicone, etc
Sequestrants, for better function in hard water.
Antistatic agents
Preservatives
Basic Conditioners coat the hair with a fine firm, temporarily smoothing down the cuticle and making hair glossier and easier to manage. Leave for a few minutes before rinsing thoroughly.
Color / Perm Conditioners are designed for chemically treated hair.
Intensive Conditioners help hair to retain its natural moisture balance, replenishing it where necessary. Use this type if the hair is split, dry, frizzy or difficult to manage. Distribute the conditioner evenly through the hair and allow penetrating for two to five minutes. If badly damage, place under steamer 15 – 20 minute Rinse very thoroughly with lots of fresh water.
Leave-in Hair Conditioners are designed to help retain moisture, reduce static and add shine. They are especially good for fine hair as they avoid conditioner overload, which can cause lankness. Convenient and easy to use, they also provide protective barrier against the effects of heat styling. Apply after shampooing but do not rinse. These are ideal for daily use.
Hair Conditioning Sprays are used prior to styling and form a protective barrier against the harmful effects of heat. They are also good for reducing static electricity on flyaway